Japan has a problem...four days in Fukuoka.
Japan has a problem…at least for cyclists it does! The problem is that there are just too many untouched, ready to be explored and fantastic destinations to choose from! This no doubt leaves many cyclists in a quandary about where to start their dream cycling holiday in Japan. Imagine remote and quiet roads through bamboo forests, small paths weaving their way through verdant rice fields, or quiet trails beside pristine beaches of azure waters..
Did I mention the amazing mountains too?
Yes, too much choice is a nice problem to have…
In reality the biggest problem Japan’s tourism faces is that of the 25 million international tourists who visited Japan in 2023, approximately two thirds only visited what is known as the ‘golden tourist route’: Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto.
This leaves a large economic benefit gap between rural and urban tourism, less popular prefectures are turning increasingly to inbound cycle tourism in efforts to advance local economies. For the cycling tourist abroad, this means adventure on the paths less travelled in Japan is calling you!
Fukuoka is hoping to cash in on the cycle tourism popularity. There is plenty on offer and the government is working hard to put in place infrastructure to assist cyclists: cycle friendly cafes, cycling hotels, bike repair stations, bike rental and a suite of cycling maps showing the most popular courses, albeit mostly in Japanese!
Fukuoka is far from the ‘golden tourist route’. Situated on Kyushu, Japan’s third largest island, it sits in the western region of Japan and can be reached by plane to Fukuoka airport, or by shinkansen to Hakata station. I spent a week there recently as a guest of the Fukuoka government to explore what Fukuoka has to offer inbound cycle tourists.
FABULOUS FUKUOKA - Day 1
We headed out from our hotel, bikes ready for the day ahead: 100km and 1000mt of vertical. I was glad to have the Specialized Vado SL available from one of the local bicycle rental stores servicing the area.
The plan for our first ride was a loop of the Itoshima area that lies to the west of Fukuoka city. Long, beautiful climbs followed by the fun whoosh of a group descending, rice fields to roll through and spectacular beaches with hidden tori gates at every turn nestled in the trees. Though weather in July isn’t exactly ideal with 39ºC and 98% humidity, it was a sweat fest!
We were treated to views of forests with winding roads and little traffic…the only noise was our group chatting and laughing as we made our way up the hills and screamed down the descents through shaded, bamboo lined roads. As some of the group broke away ahead of me, I noticed by the roadside the hand-painted sign that read ‘Are You Hungry?’…you bet I was.
I had been dreaming of a big juicy cold apple I didn’t have. But to my delight just 2 kilometres up the road was a quaint old building filled with local produce, rows of onions hanging to dry in the shed. It was time for a mountain top udon treat. Steaming noodles to fill our hard-earned hunger…in 39ºC! I think most of us opted for a cold juice and cold noodles!
The shade and quiet whisper of bamboo forests kept us rolling, stomachs full of udon. Post lunch came the anticipated sight of the Shiraito Falls; this was one place high on my list of ‘mitai’ (I want to see), knowing that after that there would be a long descent on quiet roads back into town. It was magic…I couldn’t help but use that word all day: the sights, the company, the cycling.
FUN FUKUOKA – Day 2
Legs ready to roll from the previous day of pircturesque riding, we were ready for a change of scenery. First destination was Shikanoshima, the small island connected to the mainland by a narrow spit of land surrounded by turquoise waters.
Our local Japanese cycling guide Taro san decided we should take the ‘off-piste’ path to connect us to the main road that circumnavigates the island. His legs of steel never stopped rolling and his smile glowed all day…though he had minimal English it was heartening how us cyclists connect and bond over bikes and a good ride. We smiled as we rolled past pristine beaches, the waves gently lapping the shore.
A stop at the small cycling café in a converted shop, Shika Shima Cycling, for some cold drinks and to check out their well-stocked offerings to cyclists: cold drinks, small cakes, did I mention cold air-con, plenty of pasta for the bike packing community and loads of other local foods for the journey. It’s a great example of a small business who is hoping to capitalise on the inbound tourism economy offering rental bikes and maps of the island. It is a perfect stop for those wanting a shorter ride and on a time budget, perfect for day trippers to Shikanoshima.
Our next stop was the spectacular Miyajidake Jinja (shrine). Though the route from Shikanshima seemed to be nothing but mile after mile of busy road and commercial areas, it did at least have a ‘blue line; signifying this is the official ‘cycling route’.
We all agreed that sometimes these routes are possibly made by non-cyclists…we were sure there was a better route via side roads! But the shrine did not disappoint. Covered in tanabata wishes from locals (small bits of paper attached to bamboo branches with hand-written wishes) and shiny streams of cellophane floating in the breeze…it was totally esoteric. I was lucky to be with one of our Japanese guides and we managed to squeeze in a quick expedition to the further reaches of the shrine where we came across hundreds of gorgeous red tori gates and masses of furin (wind chimes) chiming in the walkway. It was a magical and other-worldy experience.
Our ride finished up with a short route along the beach where the local govt has installed well marked cycle paths and rental bike stations. I can see it holds a lot of potential for day trippers and less experienced cyclists…crystal waters, long beaches, shrines and brilliant food. But as an anticipated storm rolled in we headed to our accommodation soaked in sweat and exhausted from the constant laughter and smiles.
FEARLESS IN FUKUOKA - Day 3
Getting out of any big city is often fraught with traffic conundrums. With Fukuoka being Japan’s 6th largest city and a population of 5.5 million, no wonder we were stuck between cars, trucks and every type of ‘kei-car’ imaginable. Home of the famous Tour of Kyushu cycling race, we started our ride just as the pros would, at Kokura Castle.
Let’s just say I was not in my comfort zone with the trucks so close, but it was time to be a little fearless and just run with things...however, there comes a point I will just say no. Watching our Japanese guide physically pushing a truck away from us with his hand was enough for me to say ENOUGH! Let’s just say that the course for the Tour de Kyushu is best done on closed roads, not amongst the usual week day rush hour traffic!In my book ice cream fixes most things, so as we called it quits on the crazy route and pulled in at a ‘michi no eki’. The michi no eki (meaning road side station), is a must stop on any Japan road trip by car or bicycle. Offering all kinds of wonderful and mysterious foods, you can be guaranteed of a good toilets, cold drinks and local produce.
Our stop did not disappoint with a choice of at least 20 different types of French Fries on offer (though they did all seem indistinguishable from each other) but we couldn’t ignore the soft serve – ice cream is lunch food right? It was a great way to put some 'ma' into the ride...a pause where we just think about the next steps.
After the well needed break, it was time to take the side roads away from the trucks and roar of turbo charged cars. We took off again and around just one corner the crazy traffic miraculously disappeared into quiet roads through small villages.
There was time to chat to each other as we rode, taking in the sights of the gorgeous old traditional houses, kura (storehouses) and joked about how much pizza we could eat after huge ice creams. It was glorious cycling along quiet roads, the only sound the familiar click of our gears and the wind rushing past. We topped off this segment with the incredible 'all you can eat' pizza at our lunch stop Hishimitsu Cafe.
Housed in an old ‘kura’ the restaurant was a truly spectacular culinary stop…the entrée served on small shell like plates reminded me of the ancient Japanese game of kai-awase.But as often happens, our post ride plans were thwarted with an approaching storm. We managed at least a few kilometres through gorgeous verdant rice fields and watched children playing by the river. But soon enough the grey clouds sent their message…the gods had spoken and it was time for the ‘kaminari’ (thunder gods) to explode. What a show we had…a downpour like only Japan can do as we sat in the comfort of our van watching our guides perilously load bikes amid the lightening. Our cycling was over, our hill climb missed, but a an onsen was waiting for us!FINALLY GOODBYE IN FUKUOKA - Day 4
All good things must come to an end...even bike rides. We had returned our bikes the evening before and had one last day of sightseeing in fabulous Fukuoka. It was going to be hard to part, but I guess that's what bikes do...they create powerful bonds to the people who share the journey with you.
We left the amazing onsen Harazuru no Mai which hosted us the previous night...each room having a completely different layout and very own spring water fed bath. It was a divine experience soaking in the relaxing aroma of the hinoki pine before our sumptuous traditional feast of sashimi, hot pot and Fukuoka's speciality of 'mentai' - basically salmon roe served in so many ways! It's absolutely delicious, but I 'get it' that for some it is a bit weird!
Our final day we were transported by bus to the beautiful Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine. Walkways lined with the magical 'furin' glass bells that whisper a gentle calling to the gods, and every single person in Fukuoka visiting in 39ºC heat! Though we would have preferred to cycle to our destination, we knew that this was just the ‘taste-test’ of courses. A little bit of each area to familiarise us with what each location has to offer for cyclists. It certainly was tempting, and it left me wanting to return to ‘join-the dots’ of where we had been.
Fukuoka has a diversity that is surely attractive to all kinds of cyclists: hill climbs, flat beach rides, rice paddy adventures, rural areas that feel miles away from anywhere. This is the ‘real Japan’…this is where the locals live and go about their every day, and as cyclists we are merely transitory guests glimpsing the unknown but constantly gasping in awe at the beauty, serenity and magic away from the ‘golden tourist route’. This is the real problem…which route to choose!
Thank you to Fukuoka Government Tourism for inviting me. Also to Lee Rodgers (aka crankpunk), Taiwan KOM organiser, for instigating the opportunity, and to my fellow tour organisers from Australia for being a part of the team.
David from Wide Open Road Cycle Tours
Will from Twowheeltours
Bade from Connect Sport Australia & Japan
Brendon from SEVEN - UCI Gravel World Series
and the gang from Visit Fukuoka Japan
Thank you to my crazy fellow cyclists for being the best cycle buddies on the adventure.
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